In blind tastings of young wines such as we do for these reviews, the ultimate heights certain wines may achieve can be hard to discern. Such is the case for Grosset’s Polish Hill Riesling, a wine that impresses for its power and clarity at this age, but clearly has much more to give. Floral and mineral notes open, followed by strident apple and lime flavors. It’s zingy, bold and intense—impressive now, but try to give it at least five years to see how badly this rating underestimates its apogee.——J.C.(6/1/2007)—— 90