Soft-textured and powerful at the same time, Sesta di Sopra’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino gives the impression it is still holding back much of its potential. Dark fruit, earthiness, licorice, toasted oak, tar and spices all open in the glass as this intense wine gradually shows its pure breed. Like many wines from the southern part of the zone, it comes across as a wine that is best enjoyed on the young side but it is sure to provide much pleasure over the next few years. This is a terrific effort from Sesta di Sopra. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Various American importers, including: Premier Wine Company, Richmond, CA; Dal Imports, New York, NY.

This modern Brunello is intensely redolent of roasted nuts, vanilla and espresso bean and although these oak-driven notes are very pretty, there’s not much fresh fruit in the background. The wine boasts thick extraction and density but probably won’t age more than three or four more years.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 88