Minerality, dark cherries, black currants, tapenade, acacia, and tar-like scents emerge from the 2004 St.-Joseph l’Olivaie. Well-made, with good acidity, medium body, and a fine finish, it should be consumed over the next 5-6 years. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 398-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048 and William-Harrison Imports, Inc. Manassas, Virginia 20109 (tel) (703) 815-9463.

Like the other Coursodon bottlings, this is marred by brettanomyces. There’s some decent cherry fruit, but the wine is dominated by horse-blanket aromas. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 83