The 1996 Barolo Le Gramolere is a dark ruby-colored, earthy, structured, medium to full-bodied wine with a great deal of muscle and intensity. It displays an herbaceous, tobacco, smoky, dried fruit-scented nose, and an old style, traditional, astringent finish. This wine could turn out to be a classic, but it also could be slightly rustic and tannic. Time will tell. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411