In comparison, the 1981 Chateauneuf du Pape is a beautiful, elegant and mature effort that’s loaded with charm. Spice-box, cedar, licorice, tobacco leaf and aged-meat qualities all show here, and it’s medium-bodied, supple and seamless on the palate. Completely mature and in need of consuming, it’s a classy effort that still dishes out loads of pleasure.
Another bastillion of traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Donjon is owned by Lucien and Marie Jose Michel, with the winemaking now firmly in the hands of their talented daughter, Claire Michel. They produce a single red and white Chateauneuf du Pape, with the red always a rough blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the balance a mix of other permitted varieties. They started partial destemming in 1993, pulling out the green stems and keeping the more lignified stems. Aging occurs all in concrete tanks and older foudre. This was a fabulous tasting with both Claire and her brother Francois, and as I hope the notes show, the wines have classic Chateauneuf du Pape character and broad drink windows.
Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173