Readers should note that this is a particular cuvee selected by French wine broker Alain Corcia and bottled unfined and unfiltered for the American and Japanese marketplaces. It is a different wine than the cuvee sold elsewhere. Skeptics who believe excessive fining and filtration do not have an impact on wine should taste the cuvee sold in Europe next to this. There is a striking difference, which I suspect is even more noticeable in lighter years such as 1996 than in more concentrated vintages such as 1990. This unfiltered cuvee exhibits a dark ruby color, and a heady, alcoholic, black cherry and kirsch liqueur-scented nose with cedar, spice cake, and pepper aromas. It is a tasty, richly fruity, elegant wine for consuming over the next 3-4 years. Importer: An Alain Corcia Selection (telephone number in France, 011 33 3 80 24 93 72); various American importers