The estate’s 2004 Agliancio Bocca di Lupa is a deep, dark beauty. This rich, weighty wine reveals generous dark fruit and sweet toasted oak on a taut, structured frame with outstanding persistence. It remains tight, backward and in need of at least another year of cellaring but it offers notable detail that only needs time to emerge. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.Importer: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Woodinville, WA, tel. (425) 415-3738

This is a uniquely distinctive wine that offers notes of resin, petrol, asphalt, black olive and Graham cracker. Yes, it’s a strange combination but this is a strange wine. If you take a chance, you will be awarded with intense flavors of blackberry and granite and thick, solid tannins. The 2004 Bocca di Lupo is very different from past vintages.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 87