The 2009 Tigiolo is an IGT blend of 45% Cabernet, 45% Corvina and smaller percentages of Rondinella and Merlot. This is a dark and hearty red wine that oozes forth with smoky tones of hickory and barbecue spice backed by luscious layers of dried fruit and Oriental bazaar. All the grapes used here see a brief appassimento to intensify the seamless bouquet. Dark mineral tones, crushed granite and toasted espresso bean also appear. This is an irresistibly delicious wine with loads of territory-driven character and a touch of Amarone sweetness on the finish. I highly recommend it, but give it two or three more years. Drink 2015-2020. If you can name but two producers in Valpolicella (I’m betting they are Dal Forno and Quintarelli), it’s now time to add a third: Lorenzo Begali. Lorenzo and his children Giordano and Tiliana make the most exciting wines in the region today. These are inaugural reviews (Begali has never been reviewed by The Wine Advocate). Visiting this small estate, tall and lanky Giordano will win you over with his impassioned dedication to the traditional Pergola Veronese growing system. He and his father believe that overhead trellising is the secret to making quality wine and controlling yields. Having now tasted this beautiful collection of new releases, I am a true Begal-iever. Importers: Siema Llc., www.siemawines.com; Vignaioli Imports, www.vignaioliamerica.com; Un Po Pazzo, www.unpopazzo.com