The 1998 Embruix, is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Carignan aged in one and two year old French oak barrels. It is a lovely, ripe effort with aromas of plums, black cherries, vanilla, and minerals. Medium to full-bodied, pure, well-balanced, and long, it offers a sweet attack as well as a tannic finish, suggesting another 1-2 years of cellaring is merited. It should keep for 12-15 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The black plum and toasty oak nose of this suave button-pusher will help you make friends quickly. Very international in style, it displays black cherry, semisweet chocolate and licorice accents on a medium frame with good acidity. It’s tasty, but a bit indistinct—this oak-heavy wine could be from many places. Still, it’s well rendered in a style that has broad appeal. Closes dark and toasty, with some dry tannins to lose. Good now, best from 2003 to 2005. —M.M.——M.M.(4/1/2002)—— 87