The 2004 Embruix is composed of 35% Garnacha, 30% Carinena, 20% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot from younger vines. Fifty percent of the wine went through malolactic fermentation in tank and 50% in barrel. It was then aged in second and third year French oak for 16 months. Purple-colored, the 2004 Embruix reveals aromas of smoke, toast, pepper, grilled meat, blueberry, and blackberry, albeit in a restrained manner. This is followed by a wine with attractive, spicy, black fruit flavors of modest depth and soft tannins. It should round out with 1-3 years of bottle age and drink well through 2014. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2731

Lovers of full-bodied, extracted Priorat wines know Vall Llach, and that cult sees Embruix as a good value. The 2004 is on the right track: the nose is almost impenetrable as it oozes blackberry, tar and fine leather. Meanwhile, the palate is like warm berry compote followed by espresso and dark chocolate. Very rich although not overly complex. Best now with steak or cheese, or hold until 2008.——M.S.(8/1/2007)—— 92