The 2005 Embruix (“bewitched” in Catalan), sourced from the estate’s younger vines, is a blend of 38% Garnacha, 26% Carinena, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, and 6% Merlot. Fifty percent of the wine was barrel fermented and all of it was aged for 16 months in seasoned French oak. Crimson-colored, the wine has an attractive nose of cedar, tobacco, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, plush, forward, and nearly seamless, it has lots of spicy dark fruits, silky tannin, excellent depth, and a pure finish. Drink this pleasurable wine over the next 6-8 years. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; www.foliowine.com

Vall Llach Embruix may be the winery’s base-level offering but it’s no starter wine. Five grapes led by Garnacha are blended to achieve a potent and piercing brew of blueberry aromas, black cherry and cassis flavors, and a rich, chocolaty finish. Modern in style, and making no apologies for it. Equal in quality to the excellent 2004 Embruix.——M.S.(8/1/2008)—— 92