The 2007 Barolo Prapo bursts from the glass with a display of muscular dark fruit, licorice, leather, tar and smoke all of which come together on a dense, full-throttle frame. A powerful, imposing Barolo, the Prapo is likely to require a bit of patience. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. This is a truly impressive set of 2007 Baroli from Ceretto. I can’t remember the last time I tasted young wines here with such lovely balance. The French oak seems far better measured than was the case just a few short years ago. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

2 One of the best wines to emerge from the Italian peninsula, this beautiful Barolo delivers dark, sensual concentration, a firm but silky feel and sophisticated aromas of mature fruit, sandalwood, exotic spice, dried rose petal, licorice, dried herbs and cola. It’s a solid, gorgeous wine with very long aging potential. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 95