Whoa, hold your horses partner. The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva Lilium Est knows who's boss. It asserts its authority with darkly robust and concentrated aromas of prune, dried blackberry, spice, tar, cedar wood and mesquite smoke. The beauty of the wine comes from its intensity and its age, as subtle tertiary notes add to its complexity and depth. The blend is 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina and 5% Oseleta, with 90 days of appassimento. That shorter dehydration time allows for more fruity freshness, with extra potential for those evolved aromas to set in now, more than a decade after the harvest. The wine ages in new French oak for three years. After Dal Forno, this is one of the biggest wines of the appellation. There's a new sheriff in town. Only 5,000 bottles were made.