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A brilliant wine from this generally unappreciated vintage, Certan de May’s 1979 remains relatively youthful in its appearance (a dense, saturated, dark plum/ruby with only a bit of lightening at the rim). The wine has a sweet nose of truffle, barbecue spice, earth, and black cherry/currant fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity, moderate tannin, and a surprisingly long, layered finish, it is a very strong, vigorous, muscular wine that has many years ahead of it. Last tasted, 5/02.