The 1928 Vieux Chateau Certan is still drinking brilliantly today, wafting from the glass with aromas of earthy currant fruit mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, sweet spices and loamy soil. Medium-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit, lively acids and powdery but not entirely melted tannins that assert themselves on the finish, this wine remains remarkably youthful as it closes in on 100 years old.