The solidly made Chiantis reviewed in this segment are not the most opulent or hedonistic, but will be admired by those who prefer Chiantis with grip and tannin. The softest wine, the 1994 Le Masse di Greve, possesses plenty of tannin, but more flesh and obvious fruit than its siblings. There is an earthy, cherry fruitiness, whiffs of leather and tar, and a spicy, medium-bodied finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900