The estate's 2004 Amarone possesses tons of clarity, depth and nuance. Dark cherries, herbs, licorice and leather emerge from this restrained, elegant Amarone. The tannins remain somewhat firm, suggesting some bottle age is required before this wine shows at its best, but this is a highly promising bottle. Proprietor Marco Sartori's philosophy is to achieve concentration in the vineyard. Accordingly, yields are kept low and the drying period is kept as short as possible in order to maintain freshness. In a perfect world Sartori told me he would be happy to vinify even earlier than permitted by regulations. The Amarone is aged for two years in French oak, of which 50% is new. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This set of wines from Roccolo Grassi was one of the strongest I tasted this year in Veneto. Proprietor Marco Sartori is on a roll. Readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these gorgeous wines. The house style favors elegance and detail over sheer power, qualities these offerings all have in spades. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

This oak-driven Amarone stands out because of its thick, inky concentration and its vinous, somewhat raw, intensity. Black fruit and spice are backed by toasted wood, and the wine has a sweet, dense feel in the mouth, with crisp cherry flavors on the close. ——M.L.(12/1/2008)—— 91