The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes boasts more raspberry and red fruits than the 2005 with decent acidity, powerful flavors for a 2004, and surprising depth and length. This will certainly be one of the vintage’s richest, densest, and longest-lived wines, drinking reasonably well young, but not hitting its peak for another 3-4 years. It will last for at least two decades. Because of the use of small barriques, especially 100% of them for the top-notch Cuvee des Cadettes Chateauneuf du Pape, I suppose it’s popular to say that La Nerthe is a modern style of Chateauneuf du Pape, but I would prefer to use the word “progressive.” That’s largely because this is an estate where the new oak is not overdone, due mostly to their use of so much Mourvedre and Syrah in the final blend. In fact, other than Beaucastel and Clos St.-Michel, La Nerthe is the only other estate in Chateauneuf du Pape to use so much Mourvedre in their wines, which obviously provides structure. Moreover, the Mourvedre can handle barriques.Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

More perfumed, as well as rich, with vanilla tinged aromas of sweet cherry fruit, red licorice, cassis and spice-cake, the 2004 Chateauneuf Du Pape Cuvee Des Cadettes (44% Grenache, 33% Mourvedre and 23% Syrah aged all in new oak) is medium to full-bodied, balanced, and textured, with bright acidity and solid concentration. Still youthful, yet drinking nicely, it will continue to evolve gracefully for another decade.