While the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes may be the lightest example of this cuvee I have ever tasted, it is still an outstanding wine. Revealing gamy, smoked meat, herb and peppery notes intermixed with blueberry and raspberry fruit, it is an elegant, somewhat Burgundian-styled effort composed of 40% Grenache, 38% Syrah and 22% Mourvedre. It should drink nicely for a decade or more. (Not yet released) The Richard family, who acquired this true chateau and great estate in 1985, has done a fabulous job in making it a reference point for Chateauneuf du Pape. The long-time administrator, Alain Dugas, has retired, turning over the reins to Christian Voeux. La Nerthe’s white wines are spectacular, and their luxury cuvee called Clos de Beauvenir is one of the great dry whites of the Rhone Valley. Both Christian Voeux and Alain Dugas told me their 2009 reds had the highest level of tannins they had ever measured. I did not notice this from the way the wines tasted given the seductiveness and richness of their fruit. Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575