The Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes was one of the first luxury cuvees of old vines made in Chateauneuf du Pape, the first vintage originating in 1972. There are usually anywhere from 500 to 1000 cases of it. The 2006, a blend of 41% Grenache, 32% Mourvedre, and 27% Syrah, is a brilliant wine for the vintage. Deep ruby/purple to the rim, with a hint of spicy oak, but dominated by black cherry and black currant fruit as well as licorice, incense, and spice box, the wine is rich, broad, full-bodied, with terrific intensity and a layered texture. It should drink nicely for at least two decades. Manager Alain Dugas, who has done such a superb job at La Nerthe since 1998, told me that they decided not to produce a Cuvee des Cadettes in 2007 because several of their old vine Mourvedre parcels were adversely affected by the year’s drought. Perhaps that is to their benefit, as the single cuvee that will be offered is a superb one. While La Nerthe has always made one of the best white wines of the appellation, it is worth noting that the very tiny production of white Chateauneuf du Pape continues to show encouraging progress almost across the board, as non-malolactic and cold fermentation techniques seem to be producing much more fruit and character in the wines.Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Also still incredibly youthful, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes (aged all in small barrels) still exhibits some oak in its cassis, toasted spice, licorice and roasted herb-like aromas and flavors. The oak falls to the background on the palate however, and this medium to full-bodied effort has good acidity, fine tannin and a straight, clean, moderately tannic finish. It’s a few years away from prime time, but will be a long-lived Chateauneuf du Pape.