Bottled in 1979/1980 (today the practice is to bottle the Riservas after 3-4 years of cask aging), this wine is dominated by its iodine, seaweed, damp earth-scented nose. Medium-bodied, with disjointed flavors of dried flowers and faded fruit, this spicy, moderately tannic wine has lost much of its sweetness and charm. I suspect each bottle is slightly different, but this example, although interesting, had lost much of its fat and flesh. A Leonardo LoCasio Selection, imported by Winebow Imports, Hohokus, NJ; (800) 445-0620. (See my profile of Leonardo LoCasio's Italian wine portfolio in issue #97)