One of the more famous wineries in Chianti, this is a reliable name for solidly made, ageworthy Chiantis. The 1994 Chianti Classico Riserva, from a difficult vintage, is a soft, elegant, strawberry-scented and flavored wine with excellent red berry fruit (cherries), toast, and a peppery, spicy, tobacco-scented finish. It should drink well for 2-3 years. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620