This is a special anniversary edition released ten years after the harvest. The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva (90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo) offers a pretty assembly of tertiary aromas with elegant ash, smoke, dry tobacco and powdered licorice. There is some dried fruit here with plums and figs in the distant background. This wine is at an interesting point in its evolution. There is just enough fruit on the inside to prevent the wine from dating itself. Its evolved texture is silky and tight.

The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva flows with dark cherries, licorice, earthiness and herbs. This is a dark style of Chianti, but the Sangiovese acidity cuts through the density of the fruit, leading to a pure, crystalline finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Badia a Coltibuono has come on strong in recent years. It’s hard to tell to what extent, if any, the conversion to biodynamic farming is playing in the quality of the wines, but the bottom line is that today Badia a Coltibuono is making the best and most consistent wines of its history.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

This ruby-colored wine exhibits a lean, streamlined appeal and does a very nice job of highlighting Sangiovese’s natural elegance. Aromas include blue flower, almond, natural rubber and spice. It has a refreshing feel in the mouth with lean structure and fresh berry notes on the finish.——M.L.(9/1/2008)—— 88