The 2019 Dufort Vivens is a brilliant Margaux, unwinding in the glass with aromas of blackberries, licorice, sweet soil tones, spices and rose petals. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit, rich, powdery tannins and a lively spine of acidity, it concludes with a long and penetrating finish. The blend is dominated by fully 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, which lends the wine immense nobility. Anyone who isn’t aware of just how good Gonzague Lurton’s wines are these days should taste a bottle.