A big step up over the classic cuvee, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Etienne Gonnet is a fabulous blend of 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Mourvedre. Coming all from the pebble soils of the la Crau lieu-dit and raised all in foudre, it offers mature, yet still lively notes of garrigue, sweet blackcurrants, cocoa dusted meats and roasted herbs to go with a full-bodied, unctuous, layered texture and surprisingly sweet tannin. It’s fully mature, yet there’s a youthfulness that will keep it drinking nicely for a number of years going forward.

This wine reveals an up-front, forward style, a dense ruby/purple color, and a gorgeous perfume of licorice, seaweed, black cherry liqueur, smoke, and truffles. Full-bodied, thick, and juicy, with a viscous texture, firm concentration, low acidity, and fabulous ripeness, it can be drunk now or cellared for another 15 years. Issue #131 rating: 94