Along the same lines, yet slightly richer, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Etienne Gonnet is an old-vine blend (100-year-old vines) of 70% Grenache and 15% each of Mourvedre and Syrah. Aged half in demi-muid and half in tronconique (oak tanks), it delivers gorgeous notes of red and black fruits, spices, underbrush and forest floor to go with a medium to full-bodied, rich, yet elegant and seamless profile on the palate. It too is drinking great and hard to resist. While I think it will continue to evolve gracefully for a number of years, I’d plan on drinking it over the coming 2-4 years.

The beefed up, top wine, the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Etienne Gonnet has broader, richer flavors than the regular bottling and more smoked herbs, licorice, and new saddle leather notes intermixed with kirsch and fig. The wine is spicy, elegant, supple-textured, attractive and broad. Drink it over the next 6-7 years.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083