Readers who love kirsch liqueur intermixed with ground pepper and almost a liqueur of herbes de Provence and earth will go bonkers over the character and concentration of the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Etienne Gonnet. This wine is so gorgeous now it is hard to believe it is actually going to age that well, but knowing this wine from the 1990 vintage, which is somewhat similar, it ages beautifully for 12-15 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Made in homage to Etienne Gonnet, the founder of the estate, this wine is only produced in top years (there was no 2002, for example). Old vines give great concentrated fruit, dominated by the ripe, earthy Grenache, with a touch of sophistication from Syrah and Mourvedre. This is well-made wine, ripe, delicious and likely to age. Imported by MacArthur Beverages. ——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 94