The 2002 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is cooler and more reserved than usual. Toffee, caramel, dried figs, cinnamon, cloves and tobacco are some of the layers that come to life in this medium-bodied yet intense Vin Santo. As always the Vin Santo from Rocca di Montegrossi shows impeccable class in its unique personality, even if in this vintage it is a touch subdued. The rich, creamy finish beautifully reconciles a traditional Vin Santo aromatic and flavor profile with a rich, expansive personality, while never going over the top. An unusual blend of 95% Malvasia and 5% Canaiolo, the Vin Santo was made from fruit that was air-dried for a full five months prior to being fermented and aged in the traditional oak, mulberry and cherry caratelli. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. My visit last year with proprietor Marco Ricasoli was illuminating, as we tasted through a number of older wines. The progress this young estate has made under Ricasoli’s leadership is nothing short of remarkable. I would be remiss if I didn’t say a word about the most surprising wine Ricasoli poured. It wasn’t one of his higher-end selections, but rather the straight 2002 Chianti Classico that impressed the most. Readers, of course, know 2002 was one of the worst years on record in northern Italy, yet this was a beautiful, mid-weight wine with no hard edges or signs of greenness, and the freshness to drink well for a number of years to come. It was truly a mind-opening wine. Importers: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504; Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI, tel. (616) 405-3260; K & L Imports, Redwood City, CA; tel. (800) 247-5987

This sweet, dessert-style white is thick and oily, delivering fig and spice notes. Impressive for its concentration and intense flavors, like a PX Sherry, finishing clean and lively. Malvasia and Canaiolo. 55 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Select to Add