A profusion of floral perfume honeysuckle and gentian; nut oils almond, hazelnut, pistachio; pungent herbs lavender and green tea fresh citrus (lime and orange zest) and luscious melon and peach combine for a seductive aromatic and palate display from Drouhin’s 2007 Meursault Perrieres. Lush and satiny in texture, it simultaneously preserves refreshment and a terrific sense of buoyancy that carry into an invigorating and uplifting finish. This is one of the most generous – yet by no means loud – expressions of its site or vintage that I have encountered. It should be fascinating to follow for at least 6-8 years, but is so seductive today it would be perverse not to immediately succumb to its charms. Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770

Stone fruit, citrus and floral nose. Mineral Perrieres, but fruit a bit slow - should be more complex. Maybe give it time.

Caramel and vanilla aromas, the palate rounded, poised, with pear and green plum flavors, along with lively acidity, filled out with toast.——R.V.(11/1/2010)—— 93