The 2009 Meursault Perrieres emerges from the glass with gorgeous layers of cool, mineral-infused fruit. There is a symmetrical energy and harmony in the Perrieres that is totally engaging. All of the elements flow gracefully towards the textured, deep finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. I tasted the 2009s with Jerome Faure-Brac, Drouhin’s head winemaker. Interestingly, Faure-Brac chose to serve these wines a touch on the warm side, so I could observe their strengths and weaknesses more clearly. It was a high stakes move, especially in a warm vintage. I am not sure I would have had the guts to make that decision, but it speaks of great conviction….and the wines came through beautifully. The 2009 harvest began on September 21st, quite late for the year. New oak levels were down sharply, malos were blocked on a number of wines and the estate did no batonnage. The wines were racked once prior to being bottled.Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. There is a slight reduction on the nose of Drouhin’s 2009 Meursault Perrières but it clears with aeration to reveal attractive white peach, granite, smoke and dried orange peel scents that are all well defined. The palate is well defined with a harmonious, lightly spiced entry. There is a pleasant touch of bitter lemon on the finish that imparts the necessary tension and race, although it will benefit from another year in bottle. Otherwise, this is an excellent Meursault Perrières from Drouhin.