A blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah aged in a mix of barrels and foudres, the 2017 Gigondas Domaine Grande Romane looks every bit as good as the barrel sample did last year, layering subtle cedar and vanilla shadings over ripe berries and stone fruit. Full-bodied, creamy and lush, the only question will be if it is just too modern and hedonistic for some readers.