The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is surprisingly round and powerful at first, particularly for a wine from this higher-altitude part of Montalcino. Dark cherries, wild herbs and earthiness are some of the notes that emerge as this brooding wine opens up in the glass. Some of the intensity tapers off on the mid-palate and notes of herbaceousness detract from what is otherwise a very fine Brunello. This is admittedly a hard wine to understand as it is at times round and harmonious, while at others it is dominated by hard, angular contours. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119