The 1998 Gigondas is fully mature (and on the cusp of fading), yet offers loads of figs, dried herbs, spice and darker fruits in its medium to full-bodied, seamless profile. It needs a quick decant to let some bottle funk blow off, but it keeps nicely in the glass and has a beautiful texture. It's a beautiful, mature Gigondas to drink over the coming couple of years.

The 1998 Gigondas (which achieved a whopping 15.3% alcohol) is a terrific, powerful, multidimensional effort with glorious levels of glycerin as well as black cherry and cassis fruit. Expressive and flamboyant, yet fresh, full-bodied, and lively, it will last for a decade or more. However, it will be hard to resist young. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083