As for the 2003 Gigondas, its dense plum/purple hue is accompanied by a rich, sweet nose of creme de cassis, licorice, underbrush, and black truffles. Deep, full-bodied, and pure, with sweet tannin and excellent concentration, it can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

No doubt Santa Duc is a modern estate, but the wines still stay true to their terroir, matching spice with fruit and keeping the oak to a nuance, not a crescendo. Intense boysenberry and mulberry flavors, spicy, peppery complexity and firm, sturdy tannins should stand this wine in good stead as it ages over the next 10 years or so.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 89