Readers looking for an incredible, fully mature Gigondas should seek out the 2001 Gigondas from Yves Gras. Up with the 2007 and 2010 vintages, it offers a complex, nuanced and mature bouquet of olives, garrigue, gamy meats and ripe fruit to go with a medium to full-bodied, silky and elegant profile on the palate. Even at age 15, it still has notable tannin, yet the mid-palate is full and concentrated; it has a beautiful texture and impeccable balance, all pointing to it continuing to evolve gracefully. If you have bottles in the cellar, it's a true treat to drink, yet it will certainly be one of the longer lived Gigondas out there.

The 2001 Gigondas (75% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, and 5% miscellaneous varietals) is a 30,000-bottle cuvee that was aged 14 months in old wood foudres, with one-third then moved into smaller barrels. It is loaded with blueberry fruit as well as notions of acacia flowers and crushed stones. A certain minerality is found in many 2001 Gigondas, perhaps because this appellation has a cooler micro-climate than other parts of the southern Rhone. This offering possesses good acidity, considerable fragrance, and a medium to full-bodied, long finish. It needs another 2-3 years to round into optimum drinking condition, and will keep for 12-15. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083