Always among the top wines at this address, the 2018 Gigondas Domaine Grande Romane delivers once again. Hedonistic waves of vanilla and ripe cherries greet the nose, while the full-bodied palate is expansive yet structured, framed by softly dusty tannins that turn silkier on the long finish. While decidedly modern in style, it looks to have the inherent substance and balance to drink well for up to a decade.

A blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah aged in a mix of barrels and foudres, the 2017 Gigondas Domaine Grande Romane looks every bit as good as the barrel sample did last year, layering subtle cedar and vanilla shadings over ripe berries and stone fruit. Full-bodied, creamy and lush, the only question will be if it is just too modern and hedonistic for some readers.

A blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah from vineyards at about 400 meters above seal level, Amadieu's 2016 Gigondas Domaine Grande Romane spent 18 months in barrels and foudres. It's full-bodied, creamy and lush, with plenty of ripe, supple fruit and hints of chocolate, leather and spice, finishing rich, easy and long.