Tasted from bottle, the 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) opens in the glass with an attractive bouquet of berry fruit, plums, orange rind and coniferous forest floor, framed by a deft application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, its succulent core of fruit framed by melting tannins. From barrel, I faulted this wine for being excessively open-knit, but while it certainly is unusually supple and giving by the standards of this cuvée, there's more depth than I perceived last year: what's more, and critically, this is simply immensely pleasurable to drink.
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