The 1990 Cote Rotie Cotes Blonde et Brune has turned out to be outstanding. It offers a sweet, expansive, smoky, bacon fat, cassis-scented nose, and rich, full-bodied, opulent flavors. It is neither as tannic as the 1988 nor as soft as the flattering, up-front 1989. Readers should give the 1989 Cote Rotie Cotes Blonde et Brune a try as it is the most developed, accessible and delicious of the regular cuvees of Guigal's Cote Rotie. While every millionaire wine connoisseur would like to find a bottle or two of Guigal's single vineyard Cote Roties, the regular cuvee of Cote Rotie is typical of the best wines of the vintage, as well as a barometer for the style of Cote Rotie in a given year. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644

A special onetime bottling. Intense yet balanced, lush with oak and oozing with plum, licorice and gamy flavors. A real beauty.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. -TM

Beautifully crafted, aromatic licorice and animal notes. Firm and concentrated, offering plenty of blackberry flavor. Needs time to open up; try in 1997.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. 15,000 cases made. -TM