An herbaceous effort made in the late nineties, the light-styled 1996 Cote Rotie Blonde et Brune exhibits a bouquet of black olives and saddle leather, medium body, soft tannin, and good spice. Production is approximately 18,000 cases. I would opt for drinking this wine over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Intense fruit and sharp definition power this wine forward, but there isn't much dense, thick and "fat" texture. Still, a mineral, vanilla and cream character surfaces and gives it a bit of smoothness. Cellar short-term. Best from 2002 through 2008. 31,665 cases made. -PM