For pure seductiveness, sex appeal, and charm, the 1997 Cote Rotie Blonde et Brune is a forward and charming effort. A classic expression of the appellation, with its bacon fat, smoke, cassis, and olive-scented nose, this medium to full-bodied, lush, dense, silky-textured 1997 can be drunk now and over the next decade. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Intriguing. Quite firm and hard, but offers a clean, clear and focused character of black and red berries, toasted oak, smoke and black pepper. Built for the cellar. Best from 2002 through 2008. 33,330 cases made. -PM