The Gasparri’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape is about as old school and classic as they come. Made from 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, raised all in concrete tanks and old foudres, it starts out gamy and feral, yet shows more and more fruit with time in the glass. Garrigue, cured meats, olive, cheese rind and saddle leather notes give way to a medium-bodied, nicely textured, pleasure-bent wine that will hold nicely for 4-5 years. There’s certainly some brettanomyces here, and it won’t be for everyone, so don’t say I didn’t warn you. I like it though and would happily drink a glass (or three!).