La Poderina’s 2009 Rosso di Montalcino bursts from the glass with intensely perfumed fruit. There is plenty of juiciness here, but not the excitement or pedigree I have become accustomed to from one of my favorite Rossos. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200