The 2000 Sandeman Vintage Porto has an intense, voluptuous bouquet with layers of creme de cassis, licorice, plum jam and fig scents that come out and grab you by the lapels. The palate is rounded and opulent on the entry with ripe licorice-tinged black fruit, marmalade, cloves and licorice, the finish well-defined and showing a little more structure than the impressive 1999. There is also a pleasant saline note adding another dimension on the aftertaste and inviting another sip. This needs another 5 to 8 years in bottle, but it will be worth the wait. Drink 2019-2040.

Clove, dried spices and plum-scented fruit on the nose; straightforward blackberry and plum flavors. It’s reasonably rich and supple in the mouth, but doesn’t seem to have a great deal of depth to support aging.——J.C.(11/15/2003)—— 86