The dark ruby-colored 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva (90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) offers aromas of toasty oak, tobacco, wood smoke, cherries, herbs, and new saddle leather. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, dense, and ripe, with moderate tannin, this fleshy, youthful Chianti is just reaching full maturity, where it should remain for 10-12 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

This wine pushes the oak regime to the max, and the cherry fruit is totally cloaked in menthol, toast and leather aromas. Beneath the veil lie black cherry, licorice and black pepper flavors, and the texture is full and supple. The very dry finish is tannic, in a manner more woody than fruity. It has style and class, but only time will show if the fruit will ever come forward. Cellar for four to six years.——W.E.(4/1/2001)—— 88