The 2000 Chianti Classico has not begun to open fully. It is a brawny, concentrated, tightly-knit effort exhibiting a deep ruby color and plenty of muscle, but not much charm or finesse. There are plenty of sweet currant, cherry, leather, and spice box characteristics in this 95% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. It should turn out to be even better than my score suggests. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2010. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Medium weight and medium intensity, with aromas of cherry tomato, flowers, leather and bramble. Firm and simple, with dried cherry and a touch of sweet chocolate. Hardly exciting but clean and much better than bland.——W.E.(4/1/2005)—— 86