The estate’s 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva is a gorgeous, firm Chianti. Sweet dark fruit, leather and tobacco are among the nuances that flow from this cool, inward wine. The Riserva needs time, but it is another very strong effort in the tricky 2008 vintage. The Riserva is the same blend as the straight Chianti (95% Sangioveto and 5% Canaiolo) but the barrels are newer, 95% 2nd year and 5% new. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Castellare is one of those properties that never seems to get the attention it deserves, despite boasting a track record of superb quality that goes back several decades. That works to the consumer’s advantage, as prices have remained quite reasonable, especially for the flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Bright and juicy, like a burst of fresh cherry and raspberry, underscored by a tobacco accent. Elegant and delicate, lingering nicely on the finish. Best from 2013 through 2022. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Chianti Classico Select to Add