Just classic Georges, balanced, elegant and refined, hiding its power under a blanket of controlled finesse. There’s great depth of flavor, with oodles of blackberry, cherry and raspberry, mocha, Chinese plum sauce, soy and spicy oak, wrapped in firm, dry tannins. Just wonderful now, but with the certainty of a long life ahead. Drink–2020. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 95