The 1995 Les Hauts de Montmirail is an outstanding wine from Brusset. His Gigondas is aged in new oak casks made from a variety of French woods (vosges, nevers, and allier). The 1995 offers copious amounts of seductive, sweet, rich black fruit (raspberries, cherries, and currants) and vanilla in its flattering bouquet. Backward, dense, concentrated, and obviously tannic, with finesse allied to power, this is one of the more structured wines I tasted from Gigondas. Clearly in need of 4-5 years of cellaring, it should hit its peak around the turn of the century and last for a decade or more. It is a beautifully pure wine, with plenty of black fruit presented in a toasty, vanillin-scented, full-bodied style. Like all of the serious red wines produced by Brusset, this wine was bottled without filtration. Last tasted 6/96.