The 2010 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail is composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, the Syrah and Mourvedre aged in small oak and the Grenache in tank. The soils here include more clay than those of the Traditional cuvee. A big, inky/black color is followed by rich notes of blueberry liqueur, acacia flowers, graphite, licorice and scorched earth. With sweet tannin, a dense, full-bodied style, and better integrated oak than Brusset achieved 15-20 years ago, this brilliant, young, vibrant, full-throttle Gigondas can be drunk over the next 12-15 years. Domaine Brusset is one of the pioneers of the more modern style of barrique-aged Gigondas, although in fact, their traditional cuvee is aged in 70% tank and 30% small oak. The luxury offering, Les Hauts de Montmirail, is aged in equal parts small oak and tank. These 2010s are both sensational efforts as Brusset always seems to get everything possible from his vineyards. There are 3,000 cases of the Tradition and 1,300 of Les Hauts de Montmirail. Importer: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476

Absolutely spectacular, and one of the candidates for wine of the vintage in Gigondas, the 2010 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail boasts beautifully integrated oak along with luxurious richness, and a dense, creme de cassis, kirsch and blackberry-scented nose with subtle smoke and burning embers in the background. Deep and full-bodied with good acidity and moderately high tannins, this opaque purple-colored 2010 requires 3-4 years of cellaring and should keep for 12-15+ years. (Not yet released)This large and important domaine has vineyards spread throughout the southern Rhone, primarily in Gigondas and its neighboring villages. Domaine Brusset was among the first estates to introduce small barrels (barriques) for aging their top cuvee, the old vine Les Hauts de Montmirail. After an extravagant use of wood in the early days, they have gotten the marriage between wood and fruit to a nearly ideal point. Those with a phobia of oak should seek out the Traditional cuvee.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Southern Wine & Spirits, and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100