Still inky colored, Brusset’s 2005 Gigondas les Hauts de Montmirail is a big, rustic, chewy and decadent Gigondas that’s doesn’t pull any punches, yet is still a joy to drink. Giving up lots of chocolate-laced dark fruits, smoked earth, licorice and big minerality, it still shows it oak élevage (and at this point, it probably always will), but has loads of texture, solid mid-palate concentration, and still present, yet sweet, tannin on the finish. I like it now, but it has another decade of evolution.

The 2005 Gigondas Tradition is a dark ruby-colored, monolithic, slightly less accessible style compared to its younger sibling. With a healthy red and blue fruit character with some crushed rock, spice and earth, this wine is a firmer style that should drink nicely for 7-8 years. Importers: Importers: Riservati, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 623-5758; Southern Wine and Spirits, Imports Division, Somerville, NJ; Fine Vines LLC, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702; Casa Bruno, Portland, OR.